Kimchi: The Spice of Korean Life.

I know it has been I while since my last post but life has gotten in the way. Well here is another food blog I hope you like it!

South Korea has burst into the twenty first century and today is a key player in the world economy. But it is not just economic progress that the Koreans are hungry for. Unlike Chinese and Japanese cuisines that have long been popular on the international dining table, Korean food is a relative new comer. Today Korean food and drink is quickly growing globally, whiping up a frenzy in the Asian culinary world.  Korean food is a story of a proud people that have been re-growing a food culture after a harsh twentieth century.  

When you walk into a Korean Restaurant you immediately feel the energy. dining is a central part of Korean life and is rarely done alone.  Its cuisine is a source of national pride and no food is bigger in South Korea then Kimchi. 

Kimchi is omnipresent at every meal. In America it would be like having one dish that takes the place of french fries, cheese, and salad all at the same time. In fact many Korean restaurants are judged souly on there kimchi.  It is great stuff with a strong smell and taste kinda like a spicy sauerkraut. 

When I first arrived in Korea I gave Kimchi a try and thought it was a strictly an acquired taste. It is made of Cabbage soaked in brine and rinsed, then layered with a mix of greens onions, garlic, soy sauce or shellfish sauce, ginger, salt and lots of red pepper flakes which is left to ferment as a pungent red mess. A Korean family's supply of Kimchi was traditionally kept in a big glazed jar and buried in the ground as a preserving stash of of goodness. It has vitamin A, calcium, more vitamin C than an Apple, it breaks down fats in the body, is low in calories, and high in fibre. And it has all kinds of immunizing properties helpful for fighting cancer and heart disease. So I have kept eating it until I thought to myself Hmmm..... that's not bad. Then one day nursing a hangover I discovered the usefulness of this amazing food. I was hurting and fuzzy as I walked to the restaurant, but minuets after eating kimchi's salty, spicy, and full crunchy favor I started to feel better. Hallelujah!!! It's like a bloody mary you can eat with chopsticks. Then before I knew it I was hooked on the stuff.  

There are many different kinds of kimchi depending on the vegetables used and the length of aging.To most Koreans a meal without Kimchi is unthinkable and I am starting to understand there thinking. It is the spice of Korean life and I am getting hooked on the stuff. This has to be a good sign of things to come in Korea! I will find the Seoul of South Korea this year. 

An example of how much Koreans love kimchi? In 2005 a report was released that due to the over consumption of kimchi by the average Korean it could not be completely good for your health…and as a result, the professor who released this statement received a variety of death threats.

The Squatty

Hello to everyone and welcome back to my small little world on the Korean peninsula.  Today we are going to talk about the easily the most disgusting topic to date.  It also might be the funniest. Imagine Anthony Bourdain’s No Reservations if he didn’t need to edit it for cable.
This post has some educational bits, but it’s really about enjoying the not-always-so-smooth experience of travel.


Warning not for the faint of heart....

If there was one thing that I heard about before arriving in Korea that made me cringe, it was talking about the medieval plumbing fixture known to the westerner as the squatty potty.  I had heard from some people that I would probably have one in my house and I was not sure how to take this information.  When I arrived I was overjoyed to see that not only where those people wrong about there being a sqautty in my house, It took me two weeks before I finally stumbled on my first one.  Korea is a very developed as a nation and with all the western influence came... the western toilet. Almost everywhere in Korea now has the traditional western toilet and you must go well off the beaten path if you want to find a squatty.  But I have a real love for walking off the beaten path and so I not only have I found the squatties, I have become pretty good at using them.

My experience of learning to use a squatty potty has came over trial and error (and wet shoes and pant cuffs unfortunately – ewwww). Here’s a few tips that I gathered. This toilet is basically a porcelain hole in the ground,. There is no plumbing/flushing mechanism associated with this.  Upon first entering the foreign abode, you will be confused.  Do you stand over the hole?  Do you squat over the hole?  What if you are wearing flip flops?  Where do you stand exactly? You know you don't want a splash! So many questions; I have thought about them all while in the squat position! 


The first thing to know is you should stand on the place where there are ‘foot rests’.  This is normally signified by little foot platforms on the porcelain structure itself.  I’ve made the mistake of putting my feet outside the edges of the porcelain structure and it just doesn’t work as well, trust me.  Instead, you stand on the porcelain foot rests.  Always get your pants out of the ‘drop zone’ as best you can.  

Next you have to know how to squat.  I honestly learned this through trial and error.  I first tried squatting in a 2/3 squat.  However you’ll quickly find out that this still leaves about 3 feet between you and the actual toilet which give you the direct effects of the splash factor.   Just use your high school physics; the longer the drop, the more the splash.  You don’t want to come out of the bathroom with your pant legs all wet.  Or worse, your shoes all squishy.  It’s not fun. The best way to describe this is to get in a catcher’s stance, just like you are ready to receive the pitch from the mound.  Now if you are actually standing on the right spot on the squatty potty then you can look down and realize you are in the best possible position to make your move.

You may be wondering how I became so smart in the ancient ways of the Asian squatty potty?

I still remember the day that I finally figured this all out.  I was at a hiking a mountain on a beautiful Saturday afternoon. while resting at the top I began to feel a sensation in a tummy.... And because I have chosen to drink the tap water here in Korea, instead of bottled.  It was not a good kind of sensation. (I know this is my own fault.) I had very few options but knew there was a building at the bottom of the far side of the mountain and I thought it might have a toilet.  I hustled as fast as I could straight down a steep 2 kilometer slope while keeping the cheeks pinched. (Not fun or easy at all) I got to the building and saw that it of course had a squatty. There was no time to size up the matter as I was about to burst. I decided to try the catchers stance for the first time; it was then that I noticed it.  In front of me, on the stall door there was some Korean writing.  It was right at my eye level while I was in the catcher’s stance.  Eureka!!!!  I had found the sweet spot; they put writing here because that’s where your eye level is supposed to be! I was so damn proud of myself I wanted to explode! I came out of that little shanty in the woods a new man feeling successful!  At that time I also decided that I could probably make a little diagram for westerners and sell it outside of the squatty for about 100 Won.  Who knows, maybe that will be my next big business idea; Squatty Potty Cliff Notes with diagram.  I’m sure you would all buy it – wouldn’t you? OK.. maybe not. 

Hopefully this info will come in handy.  It’s the least I can do as it took me wet pants legs and shoes to figure this out.  Most of all, I hope this avoids you from having the ever having the so common ‘Asian travelers constipation’ (fear of going in the squatty potty).  Happy bowel movements to you all!

In contrast to the squatter, some western toilets offer an array of options, like a seat warmer, to make your time on the throne enjoyable.

Makkolli an Amazing Korean Drink and Why it is Being Marketed Wrong.

I have posted many pictures of funny Korean Marketing and I promise that more will come. That being said the following post is not about a funny ad.  It falls more into the classification that the Korean Marketers (and many followers) have there heads firmly stuck in there own ass when they promote Makkolli as a rice wine. (Sorry for swearing Mom) It shows a true ignorance of Makkolli, an ignorance of wine, and an ignorance of the brewing of alcohol in general. 

First off, let me tell you about makkoli.  It is Korea's Rice derived fermented drink, the best way to describe it is like Nigori Sake. It is unfiltered and looks milky white in the glass. (But unlike sake it only reaches 6% to 7% alcohol by volume.) It is  mildly sweet, tart and sometimes fizzy, it tastes a bit like fruity cream soda, with a kick. It sells green plastic bottles like Soju, but they are usually bottled in liter sized bottles.  It was originally popular only among farmers in Korea, earning it the nickname nongju — which translates as “farmer’s liquor.”   But in recent years it has been growing in popularity and spreading across the oceans and off the Korean peninsula.  I have even heard from the savvy Korean-American traveler that NYC has a handful of restaurants that are starting to stock makkoli. And with with Asain food taking off in America, a makkoli micro trend may be inevitable. But let me get back on topic. Makkoli is not a wine.



First off, I truly believe that the reason that Korean's call it a rice wine is to make it sound high class. It is not, it is cheaper then beer and a farmer's drink.  In most western countries the term "Wine" is protected by law, and makkolli doesn't fit into those laws. Set all this aside, because by calling it a "Wine" it doesn't do the justice to what a phenomenal brew Makkoli is. (I would know, I'm drinking one right now) Call me stubborn but sticking feathers up your butt doesn't make you a chicken.  Here is why Makkolli should be called a Rice Beer.



Wine is a natural fermentation that comes from the yeast and sugar found in fruit, specifically grapes.  Rice beverages get their alcohol from starch that is then turned into sugars mixed with water.  Rice can even be used in the brewing of barley and wheat beers because it is grain, but let me state this rice is never used in the brewing of wines. 

“But wait,” you may say, “Sake is made from rice and is called a ‘rice wine.’ And what about barleywine?”


OK excellent point, and there have been efforts to change those names as well.  Sake isn't a rice wine either. Sake is a grain alcohol, and is brewed and prepared more akin to beer. I said more akin.  Barley and and wheat beers have a two step brewing process where sake has a one step process.  As for Barleywine, it is traditionally called a "wine" due to the alcohol content, which is closer to wine.  and let me quote wikipedia on this “Since it is made from grain rather than fruit, it is, in fact, a beer.”  That being said I could hear people making an argument saying that barley wine and sake's alcohol content is closest to wine. Fair enough. But makkolli is not it, it has 6- 8%, which is close to what? Oh an Ale.... so you can't lump makkolli in with sake in this area.  Hey don't wines improve with age?...  Not makkolli that only has a shelf life of  2-3 months unless preservatives are added.  So makkolli, like beer (which has a longer shelf life), is best when you drink early.  Then it starts to degrade. 


OK put all of this aside, It is all about perception. When I am told I'm about to drink a wine I have certain expectations. When I am told I am going to drink beer I have others.  and when you drink makkolli, it fits in with the properties of drinking beer much more than wine.  To call it other wise is ignorant at best. 


Who cares, you may say. Well why bother classifying anything if your not going to classify something accurately. Don't be lazy and just lump everything that is made from rice into the category of "rice wine" It is more marketing speak from business men and politicians that are too ashamed of a great cultural product to call it what it is. So they try is spruce it up a bit. In fact makkolli has been largely ignored until recently when Japanese and Korean hipsters started drinking it and spreading it around the world.  So they put frilly clothes on it and started pouring it into Carafes. 


I think it is a bunch of crap and call it for what it is. A delicious rice ale. and I think it is awesome! Cheers! 

(apologies for grammar errors as I do drink while writing most of my blogs)

Ag

Culture Shock: Collectivism vs. Individualism

I really have come to love the Korean Culture, I have tried to embrace the people, places, cultural differences, food, and drink since arriveing.  But there has also been some things that I found difficult to adjust to. This post is about one of them. It’s about the challenges of someone – namely me – who was raised in a society that stresses the importance of the individual, and who moves to a society that stresses the importance of family (or society) over the individual.

I’m not going to try  and talk about which is better because frankly, I have no idea; they both have good and bad points. But I would love to share since arriving this fundamental difference in culture and society created challenges (mostly to my thinking) and also made my life more interesting and fun.

The USA, like most (if not all) western societies, stresses the importance of the individual. The US is perhaps the country with the strongest sense of this in the world. The laws and societal customs illustrate that the individual is paramount. Plus, I was raised to be very independent and to think for myself. This was very important to my mother and father, that both myself and my brothers do so. And so I grew up to be a very independent person. Thanks Mom and Dad!

Korea,is very different on the other hand, it stresses the importance of the family (and to a lesser extent, the collective or society). Part of this is because of the strong Confucian influence on Korean society. Because of this, many decisions are made by the family elder (the elder male in most cases) or by thinking about how it will affect the family. 

Until I went to Korea, I always thought my family was close and a very important aspect of my life. I visit my parents as often as I can.  not as much as I would like but as much as work, money and life will permite – when I lived in US My parents, brothers, and I would talk weekly.   Since I have moved abroad we still make time every sunday to skype for an hour or so to keep up. I’ve always spent quality time with them – I travel to ohio every year to watch the State Wrestling tournament with my family or we go hiking, play games, or just plan hang out with each other.  I always call and tell them about any important decision or event in my life and often ask for advice even if I don’t always follow what they say. But when I talk to them or ask for advice, it’s more for guidance or for a different perspective, there’s no expectation (on either side) that I will always (or even sometimes) do what they suggest.

Things are different in Korea. And before I get into more depth on how things are different, let me state that this is simply a general observation… it’s by no means true for all Koreans, nor am I trying to say if it’s a good or bad thing. Disclaimer aside, let’s get into the details! Traditionally, family is patriarchal and very important to the fabric of society in Korea. In fact, the family is probably the most important aspect of Korean life – filial piety is definitely encouraged! In Confucian tradition, the father is the head of the family and it is his responsibility to provide for the family, and to approve the marriages of his children. Confucian belief strongly encourages respect for family and elders and touts the importance of the male over female. Korean families were considered a “small society.” And so the idea of individualism generally wasn’t encouraged as the needs of the family were considered more important than that of the individual. First-born sons were/are responsible for taking care of their parents and younger siblings.

So how has this bit of culture shock affect me? Well, to be honest I still have a hard time understanding it.  I was looking at things through my American eyes and simply couldn’t grasp when some friends were talking about how a 20-something female acquaintance could still have a curfew or why that same female was being pressured to quit her job because she needed to get married.  I decided I needed to learn more about Korean culture to better understand.   

I have talked to some Korean friends about this subject and tried to research the issue on my own.  I have learned about Confucianism and its impact on Korean culture and I have grown to understand it a little better. And while I could never imagine breaking up with my girlfriend because my mother told me to, at least I could understand if this excuse was ever used on me.

Since being here I have found it goes beyond simple filial piety and duty. In modern Korea, many younger Koreans have to live apart from their parents because of work. So they often create a “family” of friends to keep that feeling of togetherness. And the whole country is almost like a large family. I honestly can’t imagine the USA – or any Western country for that matter – responding like Korea did when faced with a huge national economic/debt crisis in 1997 (referred to as the IMF crisis or simply IMF in Korea). Now if a family member or close friend needed financial help and I could help, I definitely would, (and have). But I can’t imagine donating my families gold jewelry to the Federal Reserve to help pay down our national debt. (No Way!) But that’s just what Koreans did. For more info, check out this BBC story. And if you really want to learn about the entire economic story behind it, check out this fantastic in-depth series of articles on Ask a Korean.   

So this is my long, and very rambling post about one of the differences between United States and Korean society that I found most difficult to understand, but in a way have to admire it (even though it still often confounds me).

Koreans can be awkward sometimes.

I will post another Blog later this week, but for now I just have to post this. I found this picture up for display at the photo studio at the M-Park building in Gohyeon.  Something went terribly wrong when the photographer was posing this guy.  I think he forgot to have him not cover his face.  Oops.

Hello everyone meet my new friend.... His name is Soju.

Yesterday some people from work and I went to hike Mount Jirisan, the tallest mountain in Korea. From bottom to top the trek was over 20  kilometers and took nearly the entire day. Naturally after a long hike your stomach starts to grumble, and you want to eat as much as physically possible. (for me that is allot). Luckily, we found a wonderful traditional Korean restaurant nearby that had an unlimited crab dinner. The crab was a local freshwater Korean king crab. (which is delicious ) After eating plate after plate of crab, we ordered a round of soju bottles for the table. Soju has become one of my favorite drinks here in Korea and after several rounds ordered, I got the thought to write about the Korean traditional alcohol drink.

Soju is 20%~45% alcoholic drink which looks and tastes like vodka but sweeter. It is made from rice, potato, wheat, barley or sweet potato. The bottle that it is in is almost always green. It is the cheapest alcohol drink in South Korea, it costs about 2,000 Wan (2$). You may read about soju history and brands here, but I want to teach you how to drink soju properly.

Koreans usually go to drink with their friends, colleagues, relatives, even with teachers. It is very common for students to have dinner and drink soju with their seniors and professors. Drinking with them you show your respect.

Korean etiquette in drinking soju:

1. You can not fill your glass yourself. It's a bad manner and also makes Soju a very social (and socially responsible drink... well sort of)

2. When someone elder is going to fill your glass you should keep your glass with two hands. If someone younger is doing that, one hand is enough (pic1).

3. When you are going to fill someone elder's glass it's polite to keep a bottle with two hands (pic2).

4. Before drinking people usually clink glasses (pic3).

5. If you are a woman it is polite to turn side and drink (pic4).

6. Usually when Koreans drink they say "one shot" that means "bottoms up".

Some soju sexy posters :)

Drinking soju is a very common tradition in Korea, and drinking in the traditional way will always help you to make a lot of friends. 

Breaking Down a Korean Meal

In the past week I have had several conversations with friends and family on the culinary adventure my trip has turned out to be. In the spirit of exploring new foods, this will be my first of many food and drink Blogs here on Lost in a Small World.
Below is a typical meal at a Korean restaurant. the meal costs less then 15$ US. In the perspective of my experience so far this is a pretty standard meal with nothing crazy involved.  I have had some less than savory meals but I will save those experiences for a later date. I have tried to identify all the different components with numbers to give you a better understanding of it all.

1. This is a spinach lookalike Dish. Served pickled and spicy.
2. Pickled and hard boiled quail egg smothered in roasted jalapeno. I cannot explain how good this is.
3. Jerkified minnow fish. These are as salty as they are popular and go well with beer.  The texture is a little sharp and takes some getting used to.
4. A weird  type of grass clipping with bean dip and sesame seeds.
5. Roasted garlic cloves, eaten straight up. Bad breath is of no consequence here in Korea!
6. Unknown sauce didn't like it at all.
7. Pickled onion maybe? I wasn’t a fan on this one either.
8. Fresh sliced garlic.
9. Bean dip. Delicious.
10. Mustard. Boring.
11. Kimchi (fermented cabbage), and there are many different kinds.  It tastes rotten to me, but I still eat it because it is served with every single meal.... everywhere.
12. Peanuts in a vegetable oil that taste like… um… peanuts in vegetable oil.
13. An unknown pickled pancake substance. I have had this many times and although people try and tell me what it is, I still have no clue. It tastes ok.
14. The MAIN COURSE!! Sliced Pork. Most Korean restaurants have a gas or charcoal burner built right into the table, so the meal is actually cooked by you. Hence, the need for all those side dishes to keep you occupied while your meat cooks.
15. Lettuce / Sesame Leaf / Jalapeno peppers. Place the sesame and lettuce leaf on top of one another and pack it with the fresh cooked meat. Slap on some bean dip and roll it all up like a burrito before stuffing the whole wad in your mouth. Don’t be afraid to combine different elements from the side dishes with your main course!